Tortuguero, the “region of turtles”, is one of the most remote places to visit in Costa Rica. It is located on a small sandbar in the uppermost northeastern part of the country, where no roads go. Multiple vehicles are usually required to get here (a car/bus and a water taxi) unless you go the expensive route and arrive by small plane. It’s also one of the places that people kept telling me I had to check out. The area is famous for the largest green turtle nesting beach in the Western Hemisphere. Although we would need to visit at a different time to see this magical event, Tortuguero is also known as the Amazon of Costa Rica. Jaguars, howling monkeys, and green macaws awaited. 

Traveling to Tortuguero

We left Puerto Viejo de Talamanca shortly after breakfast. It took us about 3.5 hours to arrive at La Pavona boat dock via windy back country roads. Our boat departed at 3, and we got there just in time to park and pee (which, heads up, they charge for!). We opted for La Pavona and the shorter boat ride instead of Moin for a shorter drive to La Fortuna after Tortuguero. The water taxi to the tiny village of Tortuguero took about an hour and was an adventure in itself. Laura and I were lucky enough to have it almost all to ourselves, and we passed by some fantastic birds and incredible scenery along the way. 

Checking In and Chowing Down

Once we arrived at the dock, a tour guide who works with our hotel, Carey Lodging, greeted us. He escorted us through the small village, pointing out good local spots to eat/drink. Our hotel has a sister hotel right around the corner with a pool and a restaurant area for breakfast. Once we checked in, we discussed tour options and decided to go for it and book the 5:30 am canoe tour because this area is known for either super early or super late tours in the waterways. After the great debate, we were hungry and decided to check out Budda Cafe on the water. The ambiance was warm and welcoming, even with the occasional newt climbing on the walls. I had a deliciously greasy pizza, which gave me some leftovers for the next day. It’s always a good move. 

We tried to sleep reasonably early, considering the unreasonable wake-up time that we would have in the morning. The most intense rainstorm I have ever heard disrupted our slumber. It would come in waves and pound relentlessly on the uninsulated roof. After that rain, we might wake up to catch the canoe in the alley right in front of our hotel! It continued until our alarms went off at 4:50 am, and we contemplated whether or not we wanted to rally and do the tour. We hoped the rain would stop or dissipate or the tour would be potentially miserable. Luckily, we were right in it stopping at the right time. But because of the rain, I got paranoid and didn’t take my camera. I eventually kicked myself because the weather turned around, and we saw a lot of wildlife on this tour.

Canoe Tour of Tortuguero National Park

We arrived at the tour desk at 5:30 am and were the first ones there, but they were closed. People eventually started to gather, and then Diego (the one who showed us around the day before) opened the shop, started the coffee (which he said would be ready for us), and started getting everyone ready to go. After a pack of crème-filled cookies and a small cup of coffee (breakfast of champions!), we headed towards our canoe. Our guide, Arturo, was great, and we shared the canoe with a couple from Germany and a couple from the Netherlands with a pretty chill baby. We got to see quite a few birds and then a few caymans, and I was surprised with how tiny they were. Arturo was terrific throughout, telling us tons of info about the area (there are 300 species of birds here!) and the wildlife and making jokes when he could. 

Hiking Tortuguero National Park

After the tour, we returned to our hotel for breakfast and hopped in the pool to cool down. We decided to check out the hiking trails in the national park since we had already paid our entrance fee ($15) for the day with the tour. We quickly discovered on the Jaguar Trail that we would need to rent the rubber boots since the hike soon turned into a swamp. It was $4 per pair found at a local’s house by the entrance. At first, we were glad we got them, but then the swampiness didn’t last, and then the boots were uncomfortable to walk in and even gave Laura blisters. We discovered that we could’ve entered the trail from the beach and avoided wearing them altogether.

We saw a few cool things on the hike, including neat mushrooms and fun lizards with blue tails. After hiking to the trail’s end, we decided to go to the beach and return via the sand sans boots. We did get to see a large group of green macaws and explore the area on this walk; I just wish we had our own shoes.

Exploring Tortuguero Town

We finally returned the rubber boots (hallelujah!) and hit the dirt paths to explore the town more. Swimming in any water wasn’t going to happen because on the riverside, there are caymans and crocodiles, and on the ocean side, the rip currents are strong, and there are bull sharks just loitering around the surf. We decided to try the local “coco loco” drink, which sounded much better than swimming anyway. The best spot to get this delectable concoction of ice, rum, and coconut cream is at a stand right by the dock called Coco Man. I’ll admit that we got duped by a street vendor who promised an authentic “coco loco” and then gave us two different coconuts after mixing some lukewarm rum with coconut water and then charging us $10 each. Don’t buy these imitations; the real deal is much better!

Dinner on night two took us to another cute place on the water called El Patio. The service here was much better than the night before, and the food was delicious, perfectly portioned, and equally priced. I ended up sharing some of my meal with a cute dog who knew how to work the crowd, and he laid his head on my lap after petting him. Awww. I had fish with a coconut milk sauce, salad, and fried plantains. No leftovers tonight!

Heading Out

On our last morning, we arose way later than five and made our way to breakfast with Gerald, the receptionist, the waiter, and who knows what else. After chowing down on the ‘typical’ breakfast fare (rice and beans, eggs, fruit), we packed up and headed to the boat dock. You can catch a boat many times throughout the day, and we opted for the 11 am. This time, it was at total capacity, and we even picked up a local along the shore with her baby and an older gentleman with a giant fish sticking out of his bag. Nothing says Tortuguero more than an older man with a bag o’ fish.

Tortuguero is a special place that I’m glad we got to experience. You only need a few days to check out the National Park and the local scene. Next time, I’ll plan to see all the nesting turtles. Are you with me?

If You Go…

• Where: Tortuguero is situated in the northeast corner of Costa Rica in the Limón Province.
• How to get there: You can catch a water taxi from La Pavona (a one-hour ride) or Moin (a 3.5—to 4-hour ride). The public Tortuguero boat schedule from La Pavona to Tortuguero is 6 am, 7:30 am, 9 am, 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm, and 4:30 pm. The public Tortuguero to La Pavona boat schedule is 5 am, 7 am, 9 am, 11 am, 1 pm, and 3 pm. Flights from San José take 30 minutes. If you travel by public bus from San José take it to Cariari where you change to La Pavona.
• Best time to go: July to October, when you can view the turtle nestings. December (when we went) and January are the rainiest months.
• Places to eat: Budda Cafe for good food, but not great service. El Patio is excellent for food, service, and price. Coco Man is where you want to go to get an authentic Coco Loco drink.
• Where to stay: Carey Lodging is where we stayed. The hotel is cute and simple, but could’ve used a few things to spruce it up (a nighstand table anyone?). If I were to splurge a little more next time I would stay at Mawamba Lodge. Note if you stay anyplace that requires a water taxi to get to town it will incur additional costs.
• Things to do:
  – Most people that come to Tortuguero come for the turtles. When checking them out you must be accompanied by a guide.
  – You can always learn more about the turtles at the Sea Turtle Conservancy Museum.
  – Anytime of year you can kayak or canoe Tortuguero National Park just make sure to book with Official Tortuguero Guides.
  – Hike the Jaguar Trail (1.5 miles) in the national park.
  – Take your chances at seeing some vibrant frogs or highly venomous snakes on a night tour.
  – Have dinner at one of the many restaurants on the water.
  – Hang out at the beach, just don’t go swimming.
• Tortuguero National Park: $15 USD for a non-resident adult (can use credit, debit, or cash). Boat tours are $30-45 USD. The park is open 365 days of the year from 6 am – 4 pm, with a break for lunch between 12 pm – 1 pm.