Monteverde, a misty wonderland perched above the clouds, is where I pushed my limits, screamed my lungs out on a zipline, and fell head over heels for Costa Rica’s adventurous spirit. After adventuring in La Fortuna, I thought I was prepared for what this place had to offer—the breathtaking views, the relentless wind, the adrenaline-pumping activities—but Monteverde still managed to surprise me at every turn. And it all started with the journey there.

Some claimed a 4X4 was essential to make it up the rugged roads, but while they were definitely bumpy and winding, they were passable with a regular car—if you knew how to dodge the ruts and potholes. As we drove, the scenery only got more spectacular. Lush green hills stretched endlessly, and just when we thought it couldn’t get better, a picture-perfect rainbow welcomed us to Santa Elena. It felt like nature was putting on a show just for us.

Settling In and Scoping Out the Adventure

We checked into Monteverde Villa Lodge where the friendly receptionist shared about all the tours in the area. Our mission was simple: zipline through the cloud forest and see sloths. We booked our ziplining adventure with Extremo Monteverde Park and crossed our fingers that the 25 mph winds would calm down by morning.

That evening, we layered up for the first time in Costa Rica and wandered into the heart of Santa Elena. We picked Open Kitchen for dinner, drawn in by its eclectic mix of Middle Eastern flavors. Laura opted for a chicken pesto sandwich, while I took a chance on a Turkish Burek—a flaky pastry stuffed with spinach and cheese, served with spicy pickles, Kalamata olives, and a duo of sauces. To top it off, we ordered spritzes: hibiscus for me, passion fruit for Laura. The meal was a delightful surprise, and we toasted to the adventures ahead.

The Day of Reckoning: Ziplining at Extremo

The moment I had been both dreading and anticipating arrived—ziplining day. Arriving at Extremo Adventure Park we were greeted by a toucan and a couple of flashy macaws, adding to the electric energy buzzing about. Groups of thrill-seekers were either gearing up or stumbling back, adrenaline still coursing through their veins.

Extremo doesn’t mess around when it comes to adventure. Our canopy tour included a “Superman” zipline and a “Tarzan” swing. If it were up to me, I would’ve chosen the version tailored for “old people and small children,” but Laura vetoed that. I knew she was right, but that didn’t make my fear of heights disappear. I was so scared.

The tour cost about $60 and lasted three hours. The guides, a group of young, energetic guys, were efficient and professional. After a quick safety briefing, we climbed up the first tower, and suddenly, there was no turning back. We were zipping away! The initial ziplines were short and easy—manageable. Then came the big one, a zipline so long (1 kilometer!) you needed a partner. Laura volunteered to be the brake person so I wouldn’t panic and stop us mid-air. They clipped us together, she wrapped her legs around me, and then—whoosh! We were flying. My screams pierced the air (and Laura’s ears) as we soared over the lush, green valley, spotting cows below.

Next up: The “Superman.” Unlike the other ziplines, you’re clipped in face-down for this one, mimicking the feeling of flying. The wind rushed past me as I sped through the sky, simultaneously exhilarating and terrifying. Just when I thought I had experienced it all, they sent us into a pitch-black tunnel—the only zipline of its kind in the world. Cool in theory, but since we couldn’t see anything, it wasn’t exactly a highlight.

Then came the final challenge: the “Tarzan Swing.” This involved climbing a tall platform, stepping to the edge, and then—BAM—the floor drops, sending you into a free-fall before the rope catches and swings you like a human pendulum. I decided I had screamed enough for one day and opted to be the designated videographer. As we wrapped up, a light drizzle started falling, and yet another rainbow appeared—Monteverde’s way of saying, “You did it!”

A Night Among the Trees

Back at the hotel, we freshened up and made our way to dinner at the famed Treehouse Restaurant. It uniquely has a giant tree growing through the center. The ambiance was pure magic with fairy lights wrapped around the branches and live classical guitar music filling the air. Laura went for a salad, while I treated myself to a steak smothered in green peppercorn sauce. Paired with a mojito (gin and tonic for Laura), it was the perfect way to unwind.

Not quite ready to call it a night, we stopped by Noga sushi bar for another round of drinks. The night then led us to Amigos, a local bar known for its lively dance floor. A couple of beers and chili guaro shots later, we found ourselves caught up in the rhythm of the night, dancing alongside Costa Ricans effortlessly owning the dance floor. When we returned to our hotel, Laura had one last heroic moment—rescuing a tiny frog that had wandered into our room. A fitting end to a classic Costa Rican day.

Hanging With the Sloths

Before leaving Monteverde, we booked a tour at Selvatura Park’s Sloth Sanctuary, because what better way to recover from an adrenaline-fueled day than by watching the world’s laziest (and cutest) creatures? The $40 price tag was steep, but seeing these rescued sloths up close made it worth every penny.

The road to Selvatura was the roughest yet—ironic, considering it’s the most expensive park in the area. Dubbed the “Disneyland of the cloud forest,” it offered countless tour packages, but we were here for one thing only. Our guide provided some basic facts, but we had to pry for more details. Inside, we observed about a dozen sloths doing what they do best—sleeping, eating, stretching, and scratching. We were absolutely smitten.

Farewell, Monteverde

With our sloth dreams fulfilled, we made one last stop in downtown Santa Elena for souvenirs before beginning the scenic four-hour drive down the mountain to our next and final destination—Quepos. As we descended, Monteverde faded into the clouds behind us, a mystical place where we left behind echoes of laughter, adventure, and maybe just a little screaming.

If You Go…

• Where: Monteverde sits at 4,662 ft (1,440 m) elevation in the Puntarenas province.
• How to get there: The drive from San José takes 3 hours. We traveled from La Fortuna and it took us about 3 hours.
• Best time to go: December through April are the dry months but it can rain at any time.
• Places to eat: The Open Kitchen was an excellent spot for varied cuisine with refreshing spritzes. Treehouse Restaurant & Cafe was such a unique place to dine! Panadería Jiménez had an excellent selection of sweet and savory pastries.
• Where to stay: Monteverde Villa Lodge was a quaint place to stay that was within walking distance to everything in town. If you wanted to go full splurge there are many options here, including Cloud Forest Lodge. 
• What to do: There are many things to do in Monteverde, but if you do one thing make sure you go ziplining! This is the town where it all started. Monteverde Extremo Park is where we had our ziplining adventure. Selvatura is where we did the Sloth Sanctuary tour. This adventure park also has ziplining, a Butterfly Garden, Reptiles and Amphibians Exhibition, and hanging bridges.