La Fortuna was the next stop on our two-week adventure through Costa Rica, and it didn’t disappoint. If you’re looking for the iconic, cone-shaped volcano that graces many postcards from this country, La Fortuna is the place. If you want to soak in mineral-rich hot springs fed by the nearby Arenal Volcano, this is also the spot. The are so many activities here, from rafting to canyoning. You’ll find hanging bridges, watering holes, and plenty more — though, as luck would have it, we found rain and lots of it.

Day 1: Settling In

After a scenic drive from Tortuguero, we arrived at the Arenal History Inn, and our little cabin quickly won us over. It had a cozy porch with rocking chairs — perfect for watching the rain, even if they were more charming than comfortable. The cabin was spacious, with two queen-sized beds, a mini-fridge (a rarity in Costa Rica), and room to spread out. It was one of the larger rooms we stayed in, which came in handy since we spent a fair amount of time indoors due to the downpours.

Once settled, we walked to La Tipica, a local restaurant, for dinner. We started with fried yucca served with cheese and beans — a deliciously crispy and comforting appetizer. Laura opted for the “Mountain Rice,” a hearty fried rice with tiny bits of meat, while I went with chicken breast in a creamy sauce with vegetables and rice. Both dishes were flavorful and satisfying.

Afterward, we spent the evening lounging on the porch, sipping wine, and chatting like old ladies as the rain serenaded us. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of travel.

Day 2: A Rainy Day of Relaxation and Adventure

If there’s one thing we learned in Costa Rica, it’s that the rain can reshape your plans. On this day, it poured relentlessly. It was so heavy we drove the short distance to the hotel restaurant for breakfast rather than brave the walk. I opted for the “American” breakfast, a classic spread of eggs, toast, bacon (more like Canadian bacon), and fresh fruit.

We debated whether to pay $15 to Arenal Volcano National Park for a hike with no views but decided nah. Instead, we embraced the laid-back pace of the day. Laura napped for hours while I read and snapped photos of the lush, rain-soaked surroundings.

Later, we went out for lunch at a quirky container restaurant, Yellow Bark, where I had a Hawaiian burger (it was decent). Afterward, we walked around the town center, exploring its shops, cafes, and a lovely park. One interesting tidbit: the $18 entrance fee to see La Fortuna Waterfall supports the town, which helps make it so darn quaint.

The rain eased up by late afternoon, so we decided it was time to soak in some hot springs. The region offers many options, ranging from the luxurious Tabacón (at $90 per person) to more budget-friendly spots like Relax Termalitas, just a few minutes from our hotel. Relax Termalitas was an absolute steal at $8, and we discovered it to be a hidden gem. With colorful pools, natural caves, and even water slides, it had a quirky, almost surreal atmosphere — think Fraggle Rock meets a spa. We packed a few beers (a tip we picked up online) and spent hours soaking in the warm water, chatting, and enjoying the relaxing vibe.

We went to dinner at Piura, a Peruvian restaurant in our hotel. Thanks to a $12 meal credit and complimentary welcome drinks, we had a fantastic meal at an affordable price. We started with guaro sours, Costa Rica’s signature cocktail, which were as beautiful as they were tasty. Laura went with a ribeye, and I couldn’t resist the ceviche trio, which included octopus, white fish, and shrimp—one of the best meals of our trip.

Day 3: Saying Goodbye to La Fortuna

As much as we had hoped for a break in the weather, the rain continued unabated on our final day in La Fortuna. We briefly considered hiking to the waterfall before leaving town, but the rain made it clear that we couldn’t go. So, we enjoyed one last breakfast before packing up and heading out.

On our way out of town, we stopped at a large souvenir shop for some last-minute shopping. Then, we began the scenic drive around Lake Arenal — the largest man-made lake in Central America. Dense, green forest lined the road, and we even spotted monkeys swinging through the trees.

After a few hours on the road, we stopped for lunch at Cafe & Macadamia, a popular spot perched on a hill with sweeping views. The cafe was buzzing with tourists, and the signs leading up to it were all touting its farm-to-table offerings. We were not disappointed. Laura had Thai chicken soup, and I went for a yucca shepherd’s pie (pastel de yucca) served in a flavorful tomato soup. I added a smoothie for a small upcharge, which complemented the meal perfectly. After a relaxing lunch, we browsed their souvenir shop, tipped the parking attendant (1000 colones is standard), and hit the road to Monteverde!

If You Go…

• Where: La Fortuna is in the Northern Highlands in the Alajuela province.
• How to get there: The drive from San José or Liberia takes 3 hours. We traveled from La Pavona after visiting Tortuguero and it took us about 4 hours.
• Best time to go: December through April are the dry months but it can rain at any time. We went in December.
• Places to eat: La Tipica was an excellent spot for local cuisine at a reasonable price. Piura’s Peruvian cuisine was one of the best meals we had in Costa Rica.
• Where to stay: Arenal History Inn was excellent across the board. If you wanted to go full splurge there are many options here, including the famous Tabacon. 
• What to do: Luckily, there are many things to do in La Fortuna, even if you can’t see the volcano! But if you can, definitely check out the trails in Arenal Volcano National Park. La Fortuna waterfall is another can’t miss (as long as it’s not pouring rain!). There are several options for hanging bridge tours (guided or self-led) in the area. Low on funds? There are also a couple free watering holes in the area, with one even having a rope swing! Hot springs are a great activity to do no matter the weather and there are plenty of options to choose from. If you’re up for a little more adventure you can opt for some canyoning (waterfall rappelling) or rafting! Bonus adventure – exploring the Rio Celeste waterfall outside of town.